The Spärrows, Manchester: ‘glorious carb-fest’ – restaurant review

A temple to Tyrolean food, the Spärrows offers a hearty welcome to all who love cheese and dough

The Spärrows, Unit 3, Mirabel Street, Manchester M3 1PJ (07711 300 116). Most dishes £5.50-£8; dessert £3; and wines from £22

If you were to make a simple dough with flour, eggs and a little salt and then scrape it into roughly shaped twigs, straight from a wooden board into a pan of boiling water, perhaps while singing folk songs to yourself about lascivious goat herds and lusty maidens, you would soon see them rise to the surface. At which point you might agree that they looked just like tiny sparrows in flight, bobbing there in the water’s rumble and turn. Or, as they would call them in the Swabian dialect of High German, they would be spätzle, those endlessly comforting rugged noodles found across Bavaria, Austria, the South Tyrol and a few points further east.


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